Granada's other hill
Most visitors to Granada focus entirely on the Alhambra. Sacromonte, the hill directly east across the Darro ravine, is the city's other story: whitewashed cave homes carved into the red-clay hillside, a Romani community that has lived here since the 15th century, and the origins of Granada flamenco. The cave route takes you from the river promenade at the base to the Benedictine abbey at the summit, climbing roughly 250 metres through a landscape that feels unlike anywhere else in Andalusia.
The climb starts at Paseo de los Tristes, then turns up Cuesta del Chapiz — the steepest section of the whole route and the one that earns the rest. Take it slowly. The views open up quickly once you gain height, and there are natural rest stops at every turn.
The cave community
Camino del Sacromonte is the main path through the cave district. The dwellings here are partly homes and partly history: families still live in many of them, and the tradition of cave habitation goes back to the gitano (Romani) communities who arrived after the Christian conquest in 1492. The whitewash is applied each spring. Agave plants colonise the gaps between the paths.
Museo Cuevas del Sacromonte occupies 11 original cave dwellings and runs without commentary through domestic, craft and agricultural spaces that document how people actually lived here. Entry is €5–6. Allow 45 minutes. It's one of the better ethnographic museums in Andalusia, and it answers questions the caves themselves raise without answering.
The abbey and its views
Abadía del Sacromonte at the top of the hill is a 17th-century Benedictine foundation built on holy caves where early Christian martyrs were supposedly buried. The baroque church is worth an hour, but the terraces are the real reward: a 360-degree view that takes in the Alhambra, the Albaicín, the Sierra Nevada, and the whole spread of the city below. Entry €6–7, with a self-guided app available at reception.
The return descends the same route. On the way back, stop at one of the cave bar terraces on Camino del Sacromonte for a cold beer and the last of the afternoon light on the Alhambra.
The whole route is 4 km and takes around 2–2.5 hours, more if you visit both museums. Bus lines 31, 32 and 35 stop on Camino del Sacromonte for anyone who wants to skip the uphill section.