The forest that belonged to Wellington's soldiers
Pass through the Puerta de las Granadas — Pedro Machuca's 1536 Renaissance arch at the top of Cuesta de Gomérez — and the city drops away almost immediately. The traffic noise from Plaza Nueva is gone within thirty metres. What replaces it is the sound of your own feet on packed earth, the occasional drip of a stone channel, and birdsong from somewhere in the canopy above.
The Bosque de la Alhambra is a managed forest of holm oaks, elms, and poplars covering the Sabika hill. It was replanted in earnest by Wellington's troops in 1812, after Napoleonic forces damaged and deforested the hillside during the French occupation. The mature specimens overhead — the thick-trunked elms throwing deep shade across the Cuesta de los Chinos — were started by British soldiers who would not live to see them full grown. That fact sits quietly in the back of your mind as you walk.
Pilar de Carlos V: a fountain worth stopping at
About 400 metres into the forest, the path widens at a small plaza. The Pilar de Carlos V stands here: a Renaissance fountain completed in 1545, designed by Pedro Machuca and carved by Niccolò da Corte. Three stone heads project from the main face, traditionally identified as the three rivers of Granada — the Darro, Beiro, and Genil — each adorned with ears of grain, fruit, and flowers. The water still runs. Fill a bottle if you have one.
Most people pass it at a walk. Spend five minutes here instead. The fountain is shaded from above; the stone stays cool. In July and August, when the temperature in Granada's lower streets hits 35°C, this stretch of the Bosque can feel fifteen degrees cooler — the elm canopy is that dense. The Pilar is also your best photography stop on the route: shoot from the left side, with the carved heads in profile against the dark forest behind.
The path to Puerta de la Justicia
From the Pilar, the Cuesta Empedrada — the main cobbled path — continues northeast, climbing steadily through the pines and oaks toward the Alhambra gates. A parallel track, the Cuesta de los Chinos, runs slightly to the south through quieter woodland; it adds perhaps 200 metres but loses most of the other walkers. Both paths arrive at the same place.
The Puerta de la Justicia appears at the top: a horseshoe-arch gateway built in 1348 under Sultan Yusuf I, its keystone carved with an open hand (said to represent the five pillars of Islam) and a key carved into the arch above. This is the historical main entrance to the Alhambra and the end of the forest walk. Through the gate, the ticket area and the rest of the complex begin. The walk itself — Puerta de las Granadas to Puerta de la Justicia — is free at any hour. What lies beyond requires a pre-booked Alhambra ticket.
The forest walk is worth doing independently of any palace visit. Combine it with the Granada hiking guide for a longer day on the hill. If you want to extend the walk, the path past the Torres Bermejas — the red towers visible on the western spur — branches south-west from the Puerta de las Granadas and gives a different angle on the forest and the city below.