The Realejo's best-kept bar
Taberna Malvasía sits on Calle Virgen del Rosario in the Realejo, Granada's former Jewish quarter south of the cathedral. The neighbourhood is less trafficked by visitors than the Albaicín or Centro, which makes it the kind of place where you see more local faces at the bar than tour group members. Malvasía has a following among people who live in this part of the city.
In Granada, every drink order comes with a free tapa, and Malvasía's kitchen is one of the reasons locals come back. The free tapas rotate but the morcilla remains a constant.
The speciality: morcilla with pine nuts
The morcilla con piñones is what separates Malvasía from other bars in Granada. Most morcilla you encounter here is either the Burgos rice-based variety or the standard Andalusian version. This bar serves morcilla with pine nuts worked into the filling, which gives the sausage a slightly sweeter, nuttier character that works well with the richness of blood sausage. It is a specific thing worth seeking out.
Beyond the morcilla, the bar does solid work with jamón ibérico (properly sliced, at room temperature) and quesos variados (a rotating selection of Spanish cheeses that arrives with membrillo, the quince paste that cuts through the fat well).
The Realejo atmosphere
The neighbourhood is quiet by Granada's standards. The main streets see local foot traffic and a reasonable number of tourists who have come to see the Hebrew inscriptions at the Casa de los Tiros or the gardens at Carmen de los Mártires near the Alhambra wall. Malvasía draws the people who live nearby more than the passing visitors.
The bar itself is mid-sized, with seating available at most hours rather than pure standing room. Prices are slightly higher than budget Centro bars but fair for the quality: budget €4–6 per drink with tapas. Open from noon until late.
Getting to the Realejo
From the cathedral, walk south toward the Puerta Real and then down toward the neighbourhood. The Realejo is about ten minutes on foot from Plaza Nueva. Calle Virgen del Rosario runs through the heart of the district.
