The Albaicín bar that Bourdain found
Taberna La Tana sits on Placeta del Agua, a small square in the heart of the Albaicín, Granada's old Moorish quarter. The neighbourhood climbs steeply above the city centre and the bar sits at street level in one of its more accessible corners. Anthony Bourdain filmed here during a visit to Granada, and the episode gave La Tana an international audience it had not previously sought.
The place itself is not performative about any of this. The walls carry bottles and the usual bar furniture. The staff are as matter-of-fact as anywhere in Granada. What Bourdain found was an honest neighbourhood bar that happens to do a few things very well.
In Granada, every drink order comes with a free tapa, and La Tana's rotation reflects the kitchen's strengths.
What to eat
The morcilla de Burgos is the signature. This is not Andalusian morcilla but the northern Spanish variety from Castile: rice-filled, spiced with cinnamon and clove, served in thick slices. It is not what you find at most Granada bars. Order it specifically rather than waiting to see if it arrives as a free tapa.
The espinacas con garbanzos (spinach with chickpeas) is a classic Andalusian bar tapa done with care: the spicing is right, the texture is not too wet. The rabo de toro (braised oxtail) appears occasionally and is worth ordering when it does.
The Albaicín setting
Placeta del Agua is a few minutes' walk from the main Albaicín climb up Carrera del Darro. The square is small and the bar opens onto it in warm weather, which gives you a drink with the sounds of the neighbourhood around you. The Alhambra is visible from some angles on the street above.
The area around the taberna draws a mix of local residents, visitors who have done some research, and the occasional film crew that has been inspired by Bourdain's episode. Evenings here feel more genuinely neighbourhood-level than the bars nearer the cathedral. Prices are slightly higher than Centro bars: budget €4–6 per drink with tapas.
When to visit
Open from noon daily until late. The bar is quiet on weekday mornings and busy in the evenings, especially from 20:00 on weekends. The Albaicín streets are easier to navigate in daylight if you do not know them; coming at lunchtime lets you explore the neighbourhood before the evening crowd arrives.
