The Albaicín without the viewpoint queue
Most visitors to the Albaicín follow the same route: up Carrera del Darro, past the Arab baths, and eventually up to the Mirador de San Nicolás for the Alhambra view. Plaza Aliatar is not on that route. The square sits in the interior of the neighbourhood, a few streets back from the main climb, and Bar Aliatar is the kind of bar that exists because the people who live nearby need somewhere to drink.
The square itself is modest: a small open space with a few trees, benches, and the usual mix of neighbourhood life that you find in the Albaicín when you step off the tourist path. Children play in the afternoon. Older residents sit on the benches. In the evening, the plaza catches the last light before it disappears behind the hill, and the bar puts tables outside.
Tapas and drinks
In Granada, every drink comes with a free tapa. At Bar Aliatar the kitchen is not ambitious, but the tapas are honest. Expect patatas bravas, jamón, boquerones, and the daily rotation that depends on what the kitchen has. The emphasis is on the drink rather than the food; this is a bar for locals who come for a beer or a glass of wine after work, not a destination tapas bar.
For drinks, cold draft beer is the default order. The bar also keeps house wine by the glass and a small selection of soft drinks. Prices are low: around €2–3 per drink with a free tapa, which is the floor of what drinking in Granada costs.
The setting
The bar interior is straightforward: tiled walls, wooden furniture, a bar counter with the usual row of taps. Nothing was designed; everything was accumulated. Outside on the terrace, the plastic chairs and small tables do the job. The view from the square does not match the Mirador de San Nicolás, but on a clear evening you can see the Alhambra towers above the roofline, without the crowds.
Getting there
From the bottom of the Albaicín at Plaza Nueva, walk up Cuesta de Gomérez or take the C34 minibus that runs through the neighbourhood. Plaza Aliatar is in the middle section of the Albaicín, away from both the main tourist climb and the higher residential streets. The bar is at street level on the square. Ask locals for Plaza Aliatar if you get turned around: the neighbourhood is a maze and it is easy to end up on the wrong street. For a stronger tapas option nearby, Taberna La Tana at Placeta del Agua is a ten-minute walk and worth the detour.