The corner where Lorca held court
The life-size bronze statue at the corner of Plaza del Campillo is not decorative. Federico Garcia Lorca and his circle, 'El Rinconcillo,' gathered here between 1915 and 1929 at what was then Cafe Alameda. Composer Manuel de Falla, guitarist Andres Segovia, and the young Lorca debated poetry and politics at these tables during the period when Lorca was forming his voice. Today the restaurant occupies the same space. The statue faces the square. Many of the regulars still face it.
Restaurante Chikito is not trading on nostalgia alone. Under Chef Jose Carlos Exposito, the kitchen runs a serious operation built on Granada's Arab-Andalusian culinary roots.
The food
Tortilla Sacromonte is Granada's most unusual dish and Chikito does it correctly. The omelette is made with brains and sweetbreads, an ancient preparation that connects to the city's medieval food culture. It is not for everyone, but ordering it at Chikito is the most direct way to understand what Granada's kitchen actually is.
The Granada salad with cod and shredded orange is equally singular. The combination of salt cod, orange, and greens sounds simple but the balance is precise. Other kitchen strengths include Sevillana soup with monkfish, prawns, and clams; roasted duck breast with orange sauce; and fried custard with cinnamon ice cream.
The setting spans a dining room, an outdoor terrace shaded by century-old trees, and a bar serving traditional tapas. Formal enough for a special occasion, unhurried enough for a long lunch.
When to come
Lunch is the main meal in Granada and Chikito reflects that. Arriving at 13:30 on a weekday means sitting among families and office workers eating the menu del dia. The restaurant closes Mondays. Dinner is quieter and more intimate; both modes work.
