The fish market square that still smells of the sea
Plaza Pescadería sits directly behind Granada's cathedral — a small square whose name (pescadería means fish market) gives the history before you walk in. Granada's seafood trade was conducted here for generations. Cunini has been on the square long enough to be part of that history.
The restaurant operates in two modes. At the front, a bar with a marble counter runs as a seafood tapas operation — oysters, crayfish, deep-fried fish, clams in white wine, whatever the shellfish delivery brought that morning. The counter is the quickest and most direct way to eat here: stand at the bar, order by pointing, pay by the item.
Through the back, the full restaurant offers table service, a proper menu, and more time to work through the options. The terrace outside bridges the two.
The food
Cunini's philosophy is restraint. The fish is good; the kitchen does not complicate it. Salt-baked fish — whole sea bass or bream packed in salt and roasted until the crust lifts off — is the technique that suits fresh Mediterranean fish best. The salt draws moisture and seasons the flesh from outside without drying it. Done correctly, the fish is just cooked through and tastes of the sea.
The shellfish bar at the counter runs whatever is fresh: langostinos, gambas, gildas, clams, mussels. A plate of mixed shellfish with bread and a cold Cruzcampo is one of the more satisfying quick lunches in central Granada.
The fried fish from Motril — typically small fish like boquerones (anchovies) or small hake — uses the Andalusian technique of light flour coating and high-heat oil. The result is crisp outside and almost liquid inside. Motril is 65 kilometres south on the coast, and the fish arrives the same day.
The rice and shellfish casserole (arroz caldoso) requires ordering for two and approximately thirty minutes' notice. It is a wetter, soupier preparation than paella — the rice absorbs the shellfish broth rather than drying out. Worth the wait.
Location and access
Plaza Pescadería is one street behind the cathedral, accessible through the arch at the end of Calle Libreros or from Calle Pescadería. It is a three-minute walk from Plaza Nueva or five minutes from the Bib-Rambla.
The square has no through-traffic and is quiet enough for outdoor terrace eating. In summer the terrace is the most comfortable option; in winter the interior bar is warmer and more atmospheric.
Hours
Cunini opens Tuesday through Sunday from 12:30 until 23:30. Monday is closed. The kitchen runs continuously through the afternoon rather than splitting between lunch and dinner services — if you arrive at 16:00 and want a full meal, you can order one. This makes it unusually flexible for a restaurant of this quality in Spain.
